Reading with Yefer

Before I transition us to my new role as Peace Corps Volunteer Leader of Cajamarca, I need to share one last thing before we move on. I'd to like post one last video (maybe two). This is a video that I took the last night I was in Yuracoto. It's of Yeferson and I sharing a book* as we read to Cate on speaker phone. Dina's filming, Yordan's listening, and the dogs are going crazy,A pretty typical night, even though it was to be our last one together (for awhile):

* The first person to email me with the title of the book and author (in English) wins 1,000 Peacecorts Points, redeemable towards peacecorts schwag from this site's store.

** I noticed two significant changes in behavior on my last day. Yeferson was really clingy and asked, "Te vas hoy?"/"You're leaving today?" too many times to count (even though we've talked about it for the last month or so).

*** After 27 months of hard work and dedication, my camera decided that Yuracoto was where it wanted to die. Looking back at my pictures and it isn't surprising to me that stopped working. It had been put through a lot of abuse. What is weird is that it took pictures all day my last day, but when  I went to take the final set of pictures, Me hugging good-bye to the Pachamacs in driveway, it went black, never to work again. There's part of me that thinks...Does Panasonic now have camera 'soul technology'? I just need the wide angle and large memory card... Anyways, here are the last pictures taken by my dear camera before it gave up the ghost:

All my worldly possession in two bags and side bag. Not including the projector and the fly rod. 

My room, back to the way I found it. 

My last time in the my cave.

All my stuff on Roger's moto ready to take me to the bus. 

As I go through my memory card I think I'd be silly not to include this video, which is a huge shout out to both Claire and Jill. Claire (happy belated birthday... welcome to old age) gave Yeferson a large book of Disney stories, which while still a little too difficult for him to read alone, is definitely his prized possession in the library (think of it as being equivalent to a first-edition rare classic for a bibliophile). While Jill on the other hand, sent the animal cards that Yefer and Roger both like to play with. It's a fun, healthy pass-time for them.

Blog Stats from Last Month

Ever go somewhere for vacation and attend an event or church, and the leader says something like: "Boy, I see all kinds of new faces here today! Where are we all from!? Who's traveled the furthest??" I've seen it happen more than once (Shout out to Father Mike and the Dog Pound at the "Living Waters" on Memorial Day Weekend, 4th of July Weekend, and Labor Day Weekend).

Anyways, I thought I'd share the following stats with you guys. It shows where my blog visitors are coming from*. The blue places are the active visitors (Shout out to Montana!).

*I hope I don't scare you with this "big brother" type information (Boo!).

** The last time I looked at this information, I shared with Jeff that it was interesting that I had few visitors from countries in the former Eastern Block. I couldn't figure out why, but soon after I started to receive smart-ass comments on my blog from a guy claiming to be in Bulgaria or Romania... It was Jeff, and I so decided that allowing blog comments wasn't a good idea. You can thank for Jeff for loosing that feature.

After Googling it, the most probable reason I had visitors from those countries is due bots (hacked computers in a network) trying to spam my account with links in the comment section. Once I removed the comment option, these visitors went away... FYI.

Dina Goes Into Business and Other Reflections on the Family's Growth.

Two years ago, I arrived to live with a humble but caring family for my Peace Corps service. The head of the Pachacamac household, Roger, luckily had the open-mindedness and foresight to see that accepting a volunteer from the USA into his household for two years could be a blessing for his family (even though it was a huge risk). My first impression was: Roger's home, while spacious, didn't have much.

Although my first few days in site are branded into my memory, I often go back and re-watch this video I made my first full day in Yuracoto (Yuracoto August 2011). Although there are lots of gems in that video: 1, Me calling Dina "mama" (something I did for the first 3 months until it sunk in that she's my age); 2, seeing baby Yordan; 3, noting the rooms I hadn't been invited into yet; etc.,  the best part for me is from 5:08-5:12. It may be hard for some note, but for me it's obvious, I was kinda scared. I can hear it my voice.  It's like the idea of living with a people that are too shy to talk to me, in a home in the middle of nowhere, with no shower, no bathroom, animals in the kitchen, a open-fire stove, and rock for a kitchen table is my fate for the next 24 months; and it all hits me when I say: "this is my house for the next two years". ("Dang, two years of this!..." I know that crossed my mind).

This video helps me put my two years into perspective. If you were to ask me that day this video was made "What I was doing there?" (or going to do in Yuracoto), I probably would have spouted my memorized lines from training about "Who I am and what is Peace Corps" and then I'd probably riff about how I wanted to make sustainable improvements for the community with huge "pie-in-the-sky", idealistic dreams.  Little did I realize that small plot of land seen in the video was going to be the setting for my greatest accomplishments and longest-lasting changes made during my service.

Just by paying rent (S/250 per month for room, energy, and food) I helped Roger and Dina make some positive changes for their family. Roger, wisely reinvested my rent into their home. I saw concrete changes occur almost every month. Corrals to keep the animals outside, a cement sink for Dina to wash clothes, a shower, kitchen tables, a kitchen sink, etc. These are just a few of the tangible changes I observed (thanks to Roger having a little extra cash on hand) . However, the two most significant concrete changes I saw were these: 1, the quality of the food improved drastically. This benefited everyone, not only the Gringo who was getting sick daily, but importantly the two young boys in the prime of their development; and 2, the room they built me. Although (in my opinion) unneeded, this was a HUGE symbolic gesture from them to me. It's easily the nicest room they have, and they've made it very clear that it's my room. I am to never rent, or think about staying elsewhere, when I return to Ancash. I'm now a part of their family, and therefore needed a room in their home. I can't explain how nice of gesture this was. Thanks.  Furthermore, they've already planned Adam's next visit this winter. He'll be staying in my room (with my permission of course).

Here's a couple photos from inside the new room (shout out to Mom for the curtains):

These curtains make the place snap. 

The blue walls and the natural light make my cave look like, well a cave. 

Yefer, Yordan and Cate inside what Yeferson calls the "cage". 

Besides the physical changes, I also see the video and think about the non-tangibles that may be hard to notice. There are many; like the shared parenting tips, a little counseling ideas, health and sanitation hints, etc., but my two favorites are Yeferson's development and the sharing the United States with the family.

Saving my favorite for last, I'd like to expand on how the Pachacamac's global view changed during my time living with them. I entered their lives as a typical backpacking gringo, who didn't speak well, over-paid for daily things, and took a lot of pictures. Their idea of the United States was a interesting dreamland of rich white people, who are really tall, and all fly airplanes. Not sure of the difference between Europe, Africa, and North America, I wasn't surprised that when asked what countries neighbored Peru? Lima and London where usually in the mix of common answers given. However, during my service, I noted very specific times that this young family was learning about the United States. The first, is when the US flag was shown on T.V., and Yeferson excitedly said "Brice, that's the flag you have in your room!! Is that the United States Flag?" This opened about an hour of questions and answers between everyone, focused just about the United States (Does your mom cook on a fire? What are the houses made out of? Do you guys really go places in outer space, like to the moon? etc). The second time is when I went home to visit. During this time, New Jersey was making international headlines due to significant flooding during the hurricane; meanwhile I was fly fishing in Montana. Not sure of the size of the US, or distance between Montana and the east coast, Roger and Dina both scolded me when I returned saying they were worried sick about me because I never called to let them know I was o.k!! (I did feel guilty about this, but also had to chuckle a little). And finally, when my folks came to visit. There's something special about the biological family meeting the host-family. I won't even try explaining this, but after my parents had left, I could really sense that it meant a lot to Roger and Dina that a gringo family from the US came to visit them, eat with them, and play with their children. It's a special connection that they now have with the United States, and its also a special connection that the Corts' now have with the Pachacamacs.

The Corts' and Pachacamacs at Laguna Paron

Pizza night in the Pachacamac house with the Corts family. 

And now for my favorite non-concrete change: Teaching Yeferson how to read. Of all my adventures and things that I consider personal accomplishments, I think this is number one, two, and three on my list of  "Things I most proud of in my life". It was a real challenge. He had been told by his parents and teachers that he couldn't read, and I think he believed it. He was on his mom's track of believing that reading is some mystical ability that he'd never understand. Unfortunately, the adults around him (me included) were fine accepting this. It made me sad and frustrated, but I lazily and foolishly didn't try to address it. I was just observing. Fortunately, after a down moment in my service, I realized that Yordan and Yeferson are two people in Peru that really cared about me unconditionally, and that I be foolish not invest as much time as possible in their personal development**. So with a school break coming, and with the help of a good textbook (shout out to Coquitos), Yeferson started down the path to becoming a reader. I'll be honest with you, little kids aren't my strong suit, and I'm not the most patient, bubbliest, or warmest teacher; however, Yeferson stuck with me. I'm also not proud of the number of times I made him cry during our sessions***, but I am proud of the way he hung with it, always tried to please, and came out an emerging reader. Additionally and almost equally important, Yeferson learning to read made big changes in the family: He became a lot more self-confident; his dad begin to become more involved in his son's education; and, his mom saw that learning to read isn't impossible! (Nice work Yeferson!!).

Yefer's room gets a make over. 

After learning to read, Yefer gets to go to Lima and get's to see a 3D movie!!

Yerferson proudly read this word in the mall in Lima.

Yeferson and Cate share a book in a bookstore. 

And now the real reason I started the this post: to show you guys how Dina has started her own business (Yay DINA!!!). I see it as another great example of how this family has, and continues to, make significant advances.

Dina, now sells chocho, eggs, Jello, and other snacks outside the local health post. It's a major step for her, as she's now responsible for budgeting for her business, doing the cooking, showing up on-time, and selling her goods. With little fear, Dina proudly sells 6 days a week from 9am to 1pm outside the health post. It's a great location. It's near where Roger works, so he can help her, and the nurses are pretty much guaranteed costumers. I'm not sure the exact catalyst for this venture, but assume that there are couple factors: Dina looking for a reason to escape the house, Yordan being old enough to play alongside of her, my rent money going away, Roger being OK the idea, and Cate providing a firm nudge. Now,  Dina selling 25 eggs in a day puts a real glow on her face, and it's great to see her challenging herself. Can you imagine wanting to start a business while knowing that you don't know how to make correct change****; it'd probably be too scary for most of us to consider. Dina's a natural business person too. She's learned the benefits of buying in bulk (24 packets for 54 soles vs. 1 packet for 2.5 soles), has no fear in prodding people passing by to stop and eat, and she's establishing herself a respected person in the community.

Dina setting up shop outside the health post. 

Tia Betty (the owner of the restaurant where Roger works) lends Dina this table everyday. 

I invested in Dina's business. Here's Dina holding 54 soles of Jello. 

Foot Notes:

*Dina and I always laugh about the day I arrived. I was dressed up in a tie, I had my huge backpack, and Dina was too shy to talk to me. The neighbor lady did all the questioning, and everyone threw a fit when I decided to sit on ground with them in my dress slacks and share some fruit. Also they claim they didn't understand a word I was saying... somethings never changed

** In July of 2012, I was sitting at the rock/table in the kitchen, feeling sorry for myself, wearing my heart on my sleeve, and barely being able to hold a conversation with Dina without breaking down. I was in a major slump, my outlook was grim, and I was really doubting that I made the right choices in life the last few years.  It was pretty pathetic. Then, just at that moment, I realized that Yordan was standing on the bench hugging neck, and Yeferson was sitting across from me with a worried, "You 'ok', man?" look on his face. The 29 year-old looking at the 7 year-old's face was spark I needed. It was then that I realized that I had been wasting too much time on fruitless things, and not on those people who really deserved it. Although, Yeferson doesn't know it, that's the moment his education became our number one priority.

*** Whenever Cate and I reflect on Yeferson's journey to becoming a reader, she always reminds me of the time I called her frustrated after a abruptly ending a class with Yeferson. I was ready to quit. The day was dedicated to the letter "T". It was pretty simple, and he was getting the idea. T with A, TA. T with E, TE, T with I, TI. etc... So at the end of the session I wrote three simple words on the board using the letter T. The idea was to have him read the words, make a huge deal out of how his starting to read real words, high-five, and end the class on a high-note leaving momentum for our next class. I don't remember what three words I wrote on the board, I just remember the first one: TUNA. I don't remember the other words, because I snapped before we could get past TUNA. Yep, he broke me when, with a ton of 7-year-old enthusiasm, proudly sounded out TUNA like this: Ttt?....Ttt....Ttt Uuuu??... Ttttuuu..... Ttttttt......Uuuuu.. Tu..... LECHUGA!!!!!! (lettuce in Spanish). After the proud approving smile was instantly wiped from my face for look of confused shock, I threw my chalk on the ground and stormed off to my room to call Cate (imagine of mix between Bobby Knight ,a two year-old baby, and a teenager getting grounded... that was me). During the phone call, I claimed "I can't do it. I swear he's doing on purpose! He's just trying to piss me off!!!! Lechuga?! Seriously, Lechuga? There's not even a T in the damn word!..." (and on went the rant). Luckily, Cate talked me down and convinced me the Yeferson wasn't purposefully trying to misread words, that he's seven, and that he's probably just guessed to try to make me happy. Made sense.

**** Here's a big time shout out to Jill for the calculators she sent me. Dina now is the boss with her "computer" when it comes to disputes about making change. With a simple press of some buttons, Dina's anxiety of getting shorted is no longer an issue. Thanks Jill.

Dear Blog Readers,

I hope you've enjoyed the glimpse of the daily life and changes the Pachacamac family has endured during my two year stay with them.  I know many of you are fans of the videos, pictures, and stories I've shared, as Roger, Dina, Yeferson, and Yordan were often the stars of my posts. Please take a moment and think about what all they've done in this time (or just look at my past posts). All of this was done by just by being the modest, hardworking, and caring people they are. They've done an amazing job of being ambassadors for their country and culture; and through them,  we've learned a lot. 

The changes that they've made to improve their situation have not been insignificant. Imagine a family of four, with a limited education, living off of 25 soles a day, doing so much so quickly. It's obvious to me that although I'm no longer with them,  the Pachamacs will do just fine life. The boys, Yeferson and Yordan, show daily their natural traits of kindness, caring, curiosity, and intelligence. They are clear reflection of their parents, and the values taught in the home. As I've said before, odds are: the Pachacamacs will most likely be just fine. 

However, I think we have an opportunity (and for me, and obligation) to insure that we do more for them in the future. "Just fine" isn't good enough for them. They've come so far and done so much, to settle at "just fine"would be a disappointment to say the least.  I have no doubt that Yeferson and Yordan could achieve great things for themselves and their family, with the right support. These little high-energy, sponges have the natural gifts; and with the right guidance,  could significantly improve this family's life. 

 Your generosity these last two years has been remarkable. Thank you for this. The care packages have been more than enough, and always greatly appreciated. But please allow me to ask one last favor:  Let's insure that Yeferson continues to read and improve in school. Let's insure that Yordan hit's all of his academic milestones on time. Let's insure Roger and Dina have a chance of having two educated sons in the family. Let's insure that Yeferson and Yordan's children have fathers that know how to read, write, do math, and the importance of schooling. Let's collectively invest in these two boys' education. Something that I truly believe will always be of value for them.

Thanks to many meetings with Dina, Roger, and Cate,  we've developed a plan on how to do this. I have already pledged that I'll make it happen; however,  if you too would like to support the boys' education, let me know. Send me an email, and I'll share how the plan looks, and how you can support it. 

Thanks for sticking with me,

Brice 
(bricecorts@gmail.com)

Jeff Says Good-Bye

There are some posts that I can pump out in a split second, and there are others that I just can't put into words. It's easy to write about things that are unique to life in Peru; however, it's the things that are unique to life in Peace Corps I have a hard time explaining. Peace Corps is a sub-culture within a culture, a job like no other, and sometimes it just can't be expressed accurately. Therefore I've been putting off writing about Jeff's last days in site for a long time now (he left in late July), just because I didn't want to have to stretch my brain around it. However, now that my last day in site has come and gone too, I need to share Jeff's story first, before I can get to my own.  Here I go:

Jeff's last hours in-site included a best 2 out of 3 basketball game versus the Big Sky Bomber. Jeff in the past was a heavily recruited power forward, and played some simi-pro ball for a league in Battle Mountain, Nevada; however, now a few steps slower, he had his hands full getting shots off against me. But in the end, I let him win... it was his last day (see the video):

In addition to this, I followed Jeff around trying to snap as many pictures as possible with the idea that the more awkward I made things, the less sad this good-bye would be.  

Jeff's middle school basket ball stance. Look at those mountains in the background!

Although it was Jeff's last hours in Huaylas, where he had spent 24 months helping develop youth, he never stopped working. Here he is explaining to a young child where to seek career guidance after graduating high school. 

Jeff's last evening in the Huaylas Plaza looking towards the Cordillera Blanca.

Jeff's last minutes with his great host-family. Inez, his mom (far left and a very sweet lady), took Jeff's going away pretty hard. 

"Brian" slips into the far left for a picture (Jeff's host-dad reportedly would talk very fondly of "Brian" during family diners, as if he "Brian" were old Army buddies. Jeff and I didn't have the heart to tell him my name is Brice). 

Jeff, Valetin, Inez, and Milagros at the diner table were lots of stories were shared. 

Jeff makes one last stop at his health post to say good-bye. 

Jeff, Berta (his original host mom) and a nurse from the Health Post stand in front of the Ambulance. This picture is interesting because, Jeff's first ride up to his site was in this ambulance. The health workers were in Huaraz when we first arrived 2 years ago, and decided to drive him site; however, when they turned on the siren, they didn't know how to turn it off.  Meaning Jeff blew into his sleepy little site with the horns and lights blaring! Not subtle entrance. 

Jeff and the family outside his room right before he walks away with his life belonging in his 2 bags. It was tough to watch his mom cry, while Jeff and his host-dad exchange manly, and very broad generalized and open-ended good-byes.  

Valetin helps with Jeff's bike as Jeff heads to catch his combi*. Jeff headed from Hualays to Caraz, then to Huaraz, then to Lima, and is now in Las Vegas, NV (talk about a shocking change). 

For me it was tough to see my right-hand man in the Peace Corps leave for good. No longer did I have the comfort of knowing Jeff was only two hours away, or that I could call him to talk if, I needed to. Jeff and I shared some pretty notable ups and downs. I have fond memories of our times together (i.e. teaching Jeff the importance of always carrying a flashlight; sharing the meaning of integrity; eating ice cream while voicing our disbelief that we've been 'in-country' for a whole 7 months! (a personal record for me at the time); and, the night he ran down the last combi leaving Huaylas to arrive to Yuracoto to help me through a notable rough patch). We shared a lot.

*Unfortunately for Jeff, his last moments leaving site didn't leave him with the best taste in his mouth. During the ride down the mountain (see an upcoming 'insider special'), Jeff forgot his computer bag under the seat. And when he realized it, the bag was gone. Meaning he lost his computer, kindle, camera, and passports (less than a week before having to leave the country). Not the last thing you want to remember about your service.

"Human Knot" in the Chicharia

After two years in my site, I can honestly say there are some things that I will NEVER miss. One of them being the significant amount of drunks that wondered aimlessly up and down the highway, at all hours of the day. There were people that I'd see almost every day, for my two full years,  "cartoon drunk" (hiccuping, walking as if they are leaning into hurricane force winds, falling over, peeing themselves, sleeping in the middle of the road, yelling, crying, picking fights with passer-byes and then staring miles off into the distance mumbling to themselves). 

 Obviously, alcoholism is a huge challenge for this community; and loose mouthed, pushy drunks often tested my patience (being the resident Gringo made me a easy target). The main source of this pain was chicha (a fermented corn beer that could be bought for S/.1 ($0.36) per 2.5 liters), and the 3 plus chicharias (places that sell chicha) in my small site of 400 families. Added to this were the 7 plus other places you could buy liquor or beer (talk about over saturation). 

Therefore, to gain some passive aggressive revenge towards the end of my time there, Jeff and I decided to go into the biggest chicharia in town and teach a dynamica, one of the many non-formal educational games we learned in training. This particular dynamica is called the 'human knot', and is meant to be a ice-breaker that also promotes communication and team work... perfect fit for this situation.  Surprisingly, these guys did pretty good. Here's the video: 

  

Baseball

Shout out to whoever sent me the baseballs (I think it was Uncle Pat). They were a huge novelty item when I first let the kids play with them, but after a few minutes, the excitement dipped a little, and the kids went back to playing soccer. Therefore, when Yeferson found them in the bottom of my toy bag, I was excited when he wanted to play. Obviously I didn't bust out my nasty slider on him, but we did get some fun games of  T-ball in during my last few days in site. Here are some videos:

Here's Yefer ready to blast one out of the park. Although I'll mention it soon in a future post, sharing American culture with host-country nationals is also part of a Peace Corps Volunteer's job. And what's more American than baseball? (Besides Chuck Norris, of course). 

Lima Driving Video

After awhile things that are very culturally different than you own, start to become normal to you. The dogs that live on the roof, the small moto-taxis, the different hand gestures ("come here" is a slow flap of one arm), etc. However, one thing I'll never adjust to is Lima traffic. It surprises everyone, that's why I was glad when I got passed this link of a professional trying to maneuver the mean streets of Lima.

If you have time, and your work doesn't block youtube, enjoy:

Don't Drive Here: Lima (Discovery TV show)

Let's Go Fly Kite (singing)

The winds in Yuracoto are consistent. Every day from 1-4pm, its a good sailing day. Therefore, I recently decided to try to make a kite out of dried corn stocks, plastic bags, packing tape, and yarn. Although the cometa (kite) looked good during and after production (see pictures) the wind and gravity gods did not approve. However, it was nice to see the host-family take a break from working in the chacra and spend some quality time watching the Gringo try to fly his kite. 

Rata! (Rat!)

How do you win* a Pulitzer Prize in journalism? By keeping calm and collected under pressure, and making sure that the camera is always rolling.

I think I've found my calling. Need evidence? Just check out this video I 'shot' (journalist talk). It happened out of the blue, but I was ready. When Dina came out of the house yelling "rata!!!!", I jumped into action. While others were screaming at the top of their lungs (Cate), I was making sure I had the correct f scale ( I think that's camera talk) and exposure setting for such a tough lighting situation. I know what you're thinking;" he's a real life hero!" (**) But, please, I was just doing my job. 

Please note a few things: 

1. In the first ten seconds you can see the situation I was in. Dina checking her hair as if it were on fire, and Cate's screams being heard in the distance (Cate's screams were simultaneously funny, ridiculous, and hard to tolerate). 

2. At the 13 second mark I giggle as I see Yordan copying the adults.

3. 18 second mark, Cate demonstrates how this whole thing is going to play out. 

4. 30 seconds, Dina yells "Hit it hard Cate, so it dies!" (yeah right!)

5. 36 seconds, I enter to see Roger's dad doing an amazing job as he has the rat cornered. Shortly after, Yeferson yells "take the broom!" as he throws it through the window. 

6. 55 seconds. I show some skills as I film and pick up the broom at the same time. Cate, while at least 15 feet away from the rat, screams as Roger's dad grabs at it (meaning he's a lot closer than she was). 

7. 1 minute and 4 seconds, the rat climbs the TV cable. 

8. 1 minute and 10 seconds, Roger's dad turns and says something to me. I have no clue what he is saying, but I quickly assume it was something like "Gringo, get the gun! This is a big one!!".

9. 1 minute and 11 seconds, while processing the fact that I'm a PC volunteer and I'm not allowed to shoot guns, it dawns on me that Roger's dad was REALLY saying "Gringo, drop to the ground and play dead.  He's blood thirsty and charging you!". I decide that it's most likely a false bluff, and decide to take a swing at the rat. I miss. 

10. After the miss, my pride is hurt, and I decide to get serious. The rat, like a famous skunk, was good... but not that good. I shut the door, and decide that only one of us is getting out alive. 

11. 1 minute and 26 seconds, the rat taunts me from a chair. Cate and I both whiff with our brooms. 

12. 1 minute and 42 seconds. I scare Roger's dad by touching his hand with the broom. He probably thought it was another rat. 

13. 2 minutes and 9 seconds, I hand Cate the camera and show no-fear. 

14. 2 minutes and 29 seconds. Cate calmly alerts us to the rat's whereabouts. 

15. 2 minutes and 41 seconds. Cate claims "He's looking at me!!"

16. 2 minutes and 52 seconds. I bluff hit the wall, scaring the rat towards Cate. Great move. 

17. 2 minutes and 56 seconds. I trap the rat against the door with my broom. Cate calmly alerts the Roger's dad and keeps a steady hand on the camera. 

18. 3 minutes and 3 seconds. Roger's dad grabs the rat with a potato bag, turns and shows Cate while asking me: "What do we do now?" 

19. 3 minutes and 11 seconds. Cate sees the tail and looses her calm (she freaks).  

20. We go outside.

GORE ALERT: We do kill the rat. Dina wouldn't have it any other way. 

* having a good editor who knows how to spell correctly helps.
** Mr. Pachacamac was the real hero that day. Hats off to Papachi.

Family Movie Nights

This is a quick video showing a Pachacmac Family past-time: Movies on the Big Screen.

 I've been presenting movies, using my projector, to my family. Everyone seems to enjoy it, but Yeferson and Yordan are HUGE fans. We've been watching the Home Alone (Mi Pobre Angelito) series and Roger, Yeferson, and Yordan are hooked (Dina tends to fall asleep 10 minutes into the movie). Yeferson's giggles and Yordan making "rounds" every 5 minutes to ensure no one is sleeping, are added entertainment. 

The start of family movie night:

Remembering the Beard

BREAKING NEWS:  On August 15th Adam Corts shaved his beard. It has been confirmed that the long, food caked, facials hairs were found laying motionless in a sink in Western Montana. During it's 2 year lifespan, the beard took on a life of it's own, and rapidly gained international fame and scrutiny. Not since the the 1930's, has one person's facial achieved such infamy. Most notably, in April of 2013, when the beard was the focal point for a massive Interpol investigation in the city of Caraz, Peru for it's suspected involvement with a Chilean cult. However, after a rapid and highly professional investigation, the beard was later released to a US State Department representative. After this episode, the beard reportedly retreated to it's native lands of  Montana, where apparently it's final weeks were spent posting underwater bass videos on youtube and fighting forest fires. The World is now in collective mourning (except for my Mom*).

The beard in Cusco.

The beard treking in the MT wilderness, preaching the "poncho and a multi-vitamin" philosophy of lightweight backpacking. 

*Just kidding Mom! The beard lives!! Viva la barba!!!!

The real reason for this post, is to show this video staring my host-brothers with corn husks on their chins acting like my big brother. Adam made a pretty big splash with the people here in Peru when he arrived with his ZZ-Top look. Yordan, the 2 year, constantly asks about Adam, and I'm sure images of Adam's beard are the most vivid memories he has.

Adam and Yordi behind the house in Yuracoto during Adam's visit to Peru. 

Gold Peak Scouting Trip

There's a peak, Gold Peak*,  that overlooks Yuracoto on the Cordillera Blanca side of the valley that has been taunting me since my arrival. So, with my years in site whittled down to my last few weeks, I decided to take a scouting trip towards the mountain, to see how I could summit it.

The view of Gold Peak from Tza Tza.

Its a peak that sits above Sara Jane Pepper's old site of Cashapampa, and forms the southern wall for the quebrada (canyon) of the famous Santa Cruz Trek. According to the oral history that I got on the mountain, 40 years ago it held snow year-round; however, due to changes in the climate, the Nevado (snow capped mountain) no longer exists. What is now there is a rocky topped mountain, scrapped free of vegetation, that only receives a light layer of hail during the cold rainy season days (which melts away in a maximum of two days time).

Looking at Google Earth and my topo map, it looks like a challenging hike (gaining nearly 6,000 feet of elevation), but very doable. However, as with most things here in Peru, it's never that easy.The biggest problem is, I have to rely on local transportation to get me to the best starting point (damn, I miss listening to country music while driving myself to a trail head). This means I have to go to a combi stop Caraz, and wait for a car going to the place I want to go to fill up. This also means that after hiking, I don't have the comfort of knowing that my car is waiting for me at the trail head. Ending my hike just means one adventure has ended, and then the next adventure of catching a ride home starts (this is my rose-colored glasses point of view).

The day I chose to scout out the mountain, there was no school due to a local holiday. Therefore the combis weren't running on a normal schedule. This means that although I arrived to Caraz at 6am, the one combi that was running to the town I wanted to go to wasn't running, and the combi going to the next town over didn't leave until 9:30. So arriving to the town 45 minutes walking to the north, at 10:30 meant I had a pretty rough start.

Although, not getting to starting point until mid-day meant that my hike was seriously off schedule, I decided to make the most of it and try to hike around the area a little bit and see the sights. There was no way I'd get even close to the summit, but needed to make the most of the day.

The other side of the peak as seen from my "starting point" at mid-day.

The grassy slopes on steep rocky terrain made hiking difficult, but it was worth the effort. After deciding to go for pure elevation gain, by trying to stair step my way up the mountain, I was soon rewarded with great views of the nearby Nevados, the Cordillera Negra, and great dead-end canyon at edge of the National Park, full of old growth Quenual trees (not to mention a black toenail from the pounding, and nearly a heart attack).

After high-knee it straight up, I was finally starting to get some good views of the valley.

The town of Pampacocha below. Pampacocha lake can be seen to the bottom right. 

This is just a shout out to Jill and my roofing hat. Great hat. 

Finally cut this cow trail at little over 11,000 feet. A huge relief to my feet. 

Followed the path around the mountain into a dead end canyon. 

Brice

Looking up the canyon at about the time I "should have" turned around.

It was just too beautiful to stop hiking. I needed to see more. 

Finally a flat spot to sit and take a break. 

Not Gold Peak, but still impressive. 

Rocky cliffs above the Quenuales. 

Fairly isolated, not easy to get to. 

Looking down on the Rio Santa. 

Looking Northwest towards Huaylas and the Coast. 

This what I came up. 

Looking up towards Gold Peak. 

Lots of places to go, not enough time. 

The hike turned out so well, that I kept pushing my "turn around" time. A mistake in Peru that I won't soon make again. Although returning late meant I got to catch a great sunset, it also meant that hoofing down the mountain at a fast pace, speed walking from my Pampacocha to the town of Tza Tza, just in time to see the tail-lights of the last combi driving away from town. Here's some of my last pictures of the sunset before I kicked it in to gear in an attempt to catch a combi.

Looking South towards Huaraz

The Huaylas Valley.

The sun setting on the Nevado. 

Pretty time of day. 

The Nevado taking on a pinkish hue. 

The sun dropping over the town of Huaylas. 

I finally returned to Pampacocha lake. 

Arriving to Tza Tza past dark meant I could either try to find a family to take me in for the night, or pay for a taxi to take me back to Caraz. Although there have been Peace Corps Volunteers in Tza Tza in the previous years, I was in full "Back to Barn" mode (see bullet point 9, page 41:Avalanche Safety Student Manual), and decided my own bed was the only place I wanted to be. So I splurged for a taxi home, talk about a budget breaker, but felt like it was something I needed to do.


* I call it Gold Peak, because whenever I ask anyone about how the best way to approach it, the only thing they tell me is that if you summit the peak, you'll find gold up there. I can count at least 4 people that have told me that; however, I have yet to meet anyone that has made it up there (meaning one day I'll be stinking RICH! Don't worry, I won't forget you guys).